Light

- Bright light is essential for nearly all succulents, (Blue, grey, or white plants especially). Insufficient light makes new growth pale, stretched and weak. As a general rule of thumb plants that are a dark green colour tend to tolerate shade or indirect light. Plants grown in greenhouses are prone to sunburn in direct hot sun or close to windows. Harden them by gradual exposure to increasing intensities or put outdoors during dull, cloudy weather.

Watering

- 'Allow soil to dry out between waterings' is the simplest advice, and very useful. But some types need a dry resting season during which ANY watering can cause rotting. So try to follow the seasons of your different plants. See information further on. Do not leave their pot sitting in a saucer of water (they're not swamp plants).

soil

- Use a free-draining potting mix high in pea-sized pumice (i.e. A pumice content of at least 50-60%). Coromandel Cacti now sell their own excellent potting mix in bags (20lt, 40lt) or in bulk (multiples of 1 cubic metre).

Fertiliser

- Use a slow release fertilizer low in Nitrogen, (as in the mix that Coromandel Cacti's plants are grown and sold in). Repotting into such a mix is the best tonic but if that is not so easy then yellowing pot bound cases can benefit from watering with Phostrogen. Or scratch in some blood and bone, or bone meal.

Repotting

- Pots must have drainage holes. If they haven't, throw them at their maker (or drill holes in them). Repot at least every two years. Echeverias and some other rosette forming succulents can be gross feeders and some people recommend repotting every six months or even more to get large and beautiful plants. Remove or kill root bugs if present. Allow wounds to dry off then pot into slightly damp mix. Rest in a warm place away from direct sun until new roots 'grab', before gentle watering.

Vigorous pachycaul (swollen trunk) types sometimes need taproots trimmed periodically for successful pot culture. Shorten taproots with a sharp knife and leave plant in a dry, airy position for a week or two for wounds to callous over before repotting. The sides of ceramic or concrete pots dry out too fast unless their porosity is sealed; use a slate sealer (available from slate and tile centers). Do not use ceramic pots that taper inwards at the top unless you enjoy smashing pots, which you will have to do, to extract the plant when it is time to re-pot.

Pests and Diseases

- Mealy bugs, root bugs, mites, thrips, scale, and aphids all SUCK! They need vigilant observation and killing. Mealy bugs and root bugs are white, slow and leave white residues on plants, roots, and soil. Mites and thrips are minute and cause 'silvering' or brownish damage to the epidermis. Scale look like tiny limpets and can multiply in huge numbers. Aphids love Echeveria flowers. Spraying with Confidor deals to all six. Root bugs hatImagee the insecticide (Suscon Green) in Coromandel Cacti's Potting Mix.

Outdoor plantings require less attention. Root freedom encourages vigorous growth, especially in columnar cacti. Heavy soils need fine bark, peat, or pumice mixed in order to aid drainage. Or better still, use a raised garden filled with free-draining mix. Against house walls is drier and warmer but be aware of potential plant size when planting near the house. Use rocks and driftwood and prospectors' skeletons for dramatic effects. Coastal conditions don't seem to bother most succulents, in fact many of them thrive in this environment. Initially, tall plants may need staking until the root system is well established.